What should you know as arborists?
·
Topping
trees
- It is the cutting of treetops and branches to stubs. The reason to
use this is to reduce the size of a tree because it is dangerous. The
reality is that topping trees mostly makes trees more dangerous.
- These are some reasons why not to top.
- Hazard reduction and height reduction are short terms.
- Topping stresses the tree, making it more sensitive to decay and
disease.
- Causes the decay- stubs left at the top of the trunk and ends of
branches will decay; this decay then undermines the tree's strength as it
grows branches back.
- New growth in the form of water sprouts. These are weakly attached
to the surface of the tree and thrive. Fast growth and not well connected
to the tree =3 increased risk of failure.
- Topped trees look ugly, which reduces property value.
- The cost of tree topping is not a one-time fee; there is an
increased maintenance cost over time.
- Tree foliage grows uncontrollably; growth is accelerated.
- The tree structure is destroyed for the life of that tree.
·
Alternatives
to topping:
- Cut branches back to branch collar on the trunk of tree or
- Cut the stem back to a lateral 1/3 diameter of the main limb or
larger.
- Remove and replace the tree with an appropriately sized tree.
· Protecting trees during construction
Often people build homes, pools, driveways,
outbuildings, or other structures near trees.
The construction activity can have lasting harmful
impacts on the health and stability of a tree. Here are some things to avoid:
- Damage to trunk and branches by heavy equipment
- Compaction of soil inside the drip-line of the tree
- Cutting of root way by trenching
- Add the soil within the drip-line of the tree, primarily upon the trunk.
All the damage caused by the parts above will not
be evident for years. Still, they will significantly reduce the vitality and
shorten the life of trees. Here is what you can do. Consult with an expert
arborist during the planning phase of the project. The arborist will meet with the contractor
and help plan the job to accommodate your trees best. Also, monitor tree
preservation measures, install protective fencing and advise on the
post-construction phase ( irrigation, landscaping, fertilizing, etc.)
·
Tree Planting
I. Select the excellent tree from a nursery
Avoid the large trees in small pots and roots
growing out of the base of the pot.
Pull the tree out of the pot's base and check that
roots are not brown or black that is white. And that they are not thickly
growing in tight masses around the outside of the rootball.
Buy the trees free of damage to trunks with one single box (unless supposed to be a multi-trunk variety).
II. Find the first root that grows above the rootball
You have to remove some fine and soil roots to find it. Should dig the hole only deep enough that that root will be 2 inches above the original soil grade (any tree and deeper twill settle in time). Dig hole 2-3 times as far as the rootball. Don't use the soil amendments in back-fill, only back-fill with soil that dug out of the hole.
III. Stake tree only if necessary
Remove the stake attached directly to the tree; you
want to stake the tree loosely from the sides to build trunk strength by moving
in the wind. Remove stakes as soon as possible the tree can stand
independently.
Potential dangerous characteristics of trees
- Cavities
- Fungal decay organisms
- Tree curves with included bark
- Root uplifting in scaffold limbs or trunk or heaving
- Cankers with the cracked wood exposed
- Trees that are bending more than 35 degrees
- Trees by large crowns and slender trunks
- Trees that have been previously topped
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